I ran away from home in January.
This isn’t as cowardly as it sounds, although I did ditch my children, husband, alarm clock, math homework, and the cold. There was a reason for it. My mother grew up in Laos and I had the chance to discover her country through her eyes. This allowed me to visit as a tourist, but with a local slant. The flavours and sounds of Laos were woven into our lives early on and much of what I saw and heard on this trip was familiar. While it helped to have someone fluent in Lao with me, I appreciated the whole experience even during the days when I was on my own.
To make things easier for those planning or considering a trip to Laos, here are quick nuggets that will ensure you’ll be ready to make the most of every moment.
WIFI Is King
There’s little chance of not being able to stay connected if that’s what the traveller wants. Unless you’re deep in the jungle you will find free WIFI. The Lao depend on it since many places are remote. The same applies to cell phone coverage. Don’t be surprised to find yourself in a dusty village that doesn’t have indoor plumbing and yet see everyone over ten years old carrying a phone. Unlock your cell phone before leaving home and then purchase a SIM card in Laos. It’s much less expensive than paying international roaming charges.
Drive This Way
Roads in Vientiane and other major towns are decent. Once outside the capital the roads deteriorate quickly. The combined challenges of booming construction, extreme weather during the rainy season, and a limited budget for road works makes for bumpy driving. Count on an eight to eleven hour trek to cover the 300 km between Luang Prabang and Luang Namtha in the northwest of the country. While renting a car is possible and safe there are other more affordable transport options: minivans and local buses are plentiful, relatively dependable, and more entertaining. There’s nothing quite like having your luggage piled onto the roof and strapped down with a tarp and bungee cords.
Be prepared to see more mopeds and scooters than stray dogs. Cars and fuel are too expensive for the average Lao’s salary and mopeds give mobility to many families. While there are helmet laws, enforcement is lax and I often saw entire helmetless families huddled close while riding home from school pick up.
Families Are Welcome
Nowhere will you find a hotel, restaurant, or shop where children are not welcome. Laos may have flown into the 21st century when the communist regime slackened its grip, but tradition still infuses most aspects of life. That means great value is placed on family and, quite noticeably, on older generations and children. This makes Laos a family-friendly and safe destination.
Lao food is typically very spicy, but restaurants will adapt for individual taste and most ask what the preferred spicy level is when taking the order. Thankfully food is inexpensive because there are so many dishes to try. Check out roadside vendors and markets too—which is where I usually ate—for some of the best food you’ll eat. Cleanliness and fresh water is rarely an issue. These places may be small but the food is prepared with care.
Don’t Worry. Be Happy.
Bor Pennyang {bo-pin-yang}, which loosely translates to ‘no problem,’ is the essence of the Lao mentality. You’ll hear it said often and by everyone. The idea is that most things we stress about are manufactured problems and not worth our energy. When travel plans take a detour, bor pennyang and go with it. That’s a souvenir we can all bring home and it won’t cost a thing.
Visit The Pagodas And Chat With The Monks
Wats (monasteries) and Buddhist pagodas are open to the public. Some of the best moments during my trip to Laos were when we’d stumble on the afternoon drums being played or hear the evening chants. Walk in, sit down, and enjoy, but remember to always remove your shoes before entering a pagoda. (That’s also true when entering someone’s home and even the occasional shop.) And don’t be shy about speaking with the monks. They’re human and just as interested in the world as we are.
And as a bonus:
Please don’t ask Lao people if their country is the same as Thailand. Imagine asking a Canadian that about the US, or a Maltese about Greece, or a Scot about England…you get the picture. We’re all individuals.
Laos and Thailand are neighbours and share a difficult history that has created today’s cultural and political climate, which is part friendly and part irritated at misunderstandings and real or perceived ignorance. Laotians are proud of their vibrant country and its history. Take some time to have conversations about that and anything else that strikes you. The Lao love to talk, listen, and tell stories, and many speak English. You’ll find that we’re all remarkably alike and wonderfully different in many ways.
There are experiences and moments that will stay with me because I allowed them in. Laos is like that. It will open its arms to you, invade your senses, and welcome you back again and again. Go.
Maple Cream Pie
what a wonderful opportunity to get to travel with your mom and see what she saw; what a gift!
and such beautiful photography! a new place to add to my travel list, thank you 🙂
Thank you! You won’t regret adding it to the list.
Laos is not a country that I had ever considered visiting prior to following along while you were there. Your photos are beautiful and it sounds a lovely place to visit!
Thank you. I hope you have a chance to visit.
Your photos show just how beautiful Laos is… breathtaking! Thank you so much for sharing.
I would love to visit. It looks so pretty and peaceful.
Oh my gosh what an amazing experience and looks like a beautiful place filled with fantastic culture. The part about the WiFi made me chuckle by the way. 🙂
Laos looks like a fantastic place to visit. It’s so beautiful!
Loas sounds amazing – just the kind of place I’d like to visit! I don’t know about an 8 or 11 hour drive though…I might have to stay put because I go crazy cooped up in a car that long!
I have always wanted to visit Thailand. Laos looks gorgeous, too. It’s a long way to get there but I’m sure it will be worth the trip.
It looks beautiful. I would have never guessed that wifi and cell service were so commonplace.
How beautiful and what an amazing trip!
My husband is Laos/Thai and I know his country is beautiful. Thanks for sharing it with us. 🙂
What a way to connect with your heritage! It looks like it was an amazing trip. Great photos!
Wow, first.. these are amazing pictures. It sounds like you had a one of a kind experience, it sounds so wonderful and interesting. I’d love to visit sometimes, I didn’t realize how beautiful it was. Cool!
What a beautiful place. It looks very peaceful and relaxing there. I love spicy food, too!
the views are stunning! What an amazing place to visit!
Wow, it is beautiful there! Sounds like and amazing visit.
Gorgeous pictures! I wish I could travel more!
That looks amazing. I would love to visit some day.
It’s unlike anyplace I’ve been.
Thanks. I hope you get the chance to.
Gorgeous place! I’d recommend a trip there.
The definitely are. So many places to discover in Laos.
Peaceful is the perfect word, with a hum in the air.
Thank you. I was surprised as well.
Thank you. It was.
You’re welcome. Are you planning to visit?
Your photos are gorgeous. We have never been to Laos but it is def on our list of to visit places.
Wow how beautiful. It has been my dream to travel the world.
What a rich experience and to be able to go with your Mother is even more special. I went to school with a family from Laos. The culture they shared was always heart warming.
Glad to hear it’s on your list.
Thank you. Travel is such a great way to see things from another perspective.
It’s definitely an interesting culture. Travelling there with my mother was great.
Stunning photos! A good friend in grade school had come from Laos and I remember everyone being so confused about WHERE she was from as they hadn’t heard of it. Looks like a great place to go!
Thanks! Laos is still a bit of a secret, but such a great one to visit.
I regret not visiting Laos the last time I had the chance, but will definitely keep it on my to-see-list now!
Gorgeous photos – the first one made me melt into a sunny daydream…
I’m now following you on Twitter so I can read more! Hope to connect there sometimen 🙂
I’m glad you enjoyed it. Laos is definitely worth keeping on your list. Hope you make it there.
WOW what an incredible trip Katja! It definitely is on my bucket list to visit a Buddhist pagoda, it is something that speaks to my soul. I’d love to learn more about their beliefs. Sounds like I should be adding Laos there too! Gorgeous!